Complete Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist for Used Cars

A thorough pre-purchase inspection can reveal problems that save you thousands. Here's your complete checklist for inspecting any used car before you buy.

Before You Arrive

Preparation

Documents to Bring:

• Notepad and pen
• Torch/flashlight
• Magnet (detect filler in bodywork)
• Tyre tread depth gauge
• Your phone (photos/videos)
• This checklist printed

Research:

• Check MOT history online
• Review common problems for this model
• Note current market price
• Know service schedule for this model

Timing:

• View in daylight (not evening)
• Dry day if possible (rain hides issues)
• Allow 45-60 minutes minimum
• Don't rush

Meeting:

• Meet at seller's address (verify ownership)
• Bring someone with you
• Tell someone where you're going
• Don't carry large cash amounts

Exterior Inspection

Bodywork (All Panels)

Overall Assessment:

• Stand back, look for misaligned panels
• Check panel gaps are consistent
• Look for color mismatches (resprays)
• Check reflections in paint (wavy = filler)

Each Panel Individually:

• Bonnet: Smooth, no ripples, opens easily
• Front wings: No rust, aligned with doors
• Doors (all): Open/close smoothly, align with body
• Sills: Check under door edges for rust
• Rear quarters: Often first to rust
• Boot/tailgate: Opens easily, seals properly
• Roof: No dents, sunroof works if fitted

Use Magnet Test:

• Run magnet over panels
• Won't stick to filler (indicates accident repair)
• Focus on: lower doors, sills, rear quarters

Rust Check (Critical):

• Wheel arches (inside and outside)
• Sills (lift rubber door seals to check)
• Rear wheel arches
• Boot floor (lift carpet, check spare wheel well)
• Under bonnet (inner wings, bulkhead)
• Tailgate/boot lid bottom edge

Red Flags:

• Mismatched paint colors
• Overspray on trim/glass
• New paint on old car (why?)
• Excessive filler (magnet test)
• Rust bubbles
• Rippled panels

Glass

• Windscreen: No cracks, chips not in driver's vision
• Side windows: All intact
• Rear window: No cracks
• VIN etched on windows (theft deterrent, good sign)
• Date codes on glass match (if not, why replaced?)

Red Flag:

• All glass recently replaced (major accident?)

Lights

• Headlights: No condensation inside
• Indicators: All working (front, side, rear)
• Brake lights: All illuminating
• Reverse lights: Working
• Fog lights: Functioning
• Number plate lights: Working
• Lens cracks or missing

Tyres (Critical)

Each Tyre:

• Tread depth: Minimum 1.6mm legal, ideally 3mm+
• Tread wear even (uneven = suspension/alignment issues)
• No cracks in sidewalls
• No bulges (dangerous, fail MOT)
• Match on each axle (at least)
• Age: Check DOT code (four digits = week/year made)

Age Check:

• DOT code last 4 digits: e.g., "2319" = week 23, 2019
• Tyres over 6 years old need replacing soon
• All tyres 10+ years old = immediate replacement

Red Flags:

• Illegal tread depth
• Budget tyres on premium car (corners cut elsewhere?)
• Uneven wear (geometry issues cost £80-£150)
• Different tyres each corner (poor ownership)

Wheels

• No kerb damage (scrapes, gouges)
• No cracks (dangerous)
• Straight, not bent
• Center caps present
• Locking wheel nut key present (essential)

Missing Locking Nut Key:

• £50-£150 to remove and replace
• Negotiate off price or ask seller to get new key

Under the Bonnet

Engine Bay Condition

• Generally clean (dirty = neglected)
• No oil leaks visible
• No suspicious new paint (hiding cracks?)
• Wiring not damaged/chewed (rodents)
• Belts no cracks (cambelt especially)

Fluid Levels (Engine Cold)

Oil:

• Level between min and max
• Color: Golden/light brown OK, black = needs changing
• Check dipstick for "mayonnaise" (water in oil = head gasket)

Coolant:

• Level correct (never open when hot!)
• Color: Usually pink/green, not brown/rusty
• No oil floating (head gasket failure sign)

Brake Fluid:

• Level adequate
• Clean, not dark/dirty

Power Steering:

• Level between marks (if not electric)

Washer Fluid:

• Not critical but indicates care level

Specific Checks

Battery:

• Terminals clean, not corroded
• Secured properly
• Date if visible (over 5 years = replacement soon)

Cambelt:

• If age/mileage due, evidence of replacement?
• Receipts essential (£500-£1,200 job)
• Visual check for cracks (torch needed)

Red Flags:

• Oil leaks (drops on ground, oil-soaked areas)
• Coolant leaks (green/pink stains)
• Mayonnaise on oil cap (head gasket)
• Corroded battery (electrical issues coming)
• Cambelt overdue (£1,000+ failure risk)

Interior Inspection

Cabin Condition

General:

• Smell: Musty/damp = water leak
• Carpets: Check for water stains (sunroof/windscreen leaks)
• Seats: Wear appropriate for mileage?
• Pedal rubbers: Heavy wear = high mileage

Mileage Verification:

• Low mileage but heavily worn pedals = clocked
• Shiny steering wheel but low miles = suspicious
• Seat bolster wear vs mileage

Seats:

• All move correctly (electric/manual)
• No rips or burns
• Seatbelts work, retract properly
• Child seat anchors present (if needed)

Dashboard:

• No warning lights illuminated (key in position 2, not started)
• All gauges work
• No cracks
• Switches not broken

All Electrical Functions

Must Test Everything:

• All windows up/down (including rear)
• Central locking (all doors)
• Electric mirrors (adjust, fold if applicable)
• Heated seats (if fitted)
• Heated windscreen/mirrors
• Air conditioning (cold air within 2 mins)
• Heater (hot air, all fan speeds)
• Radio/infotainment (all functions)
• Bluetooth connection
• USB ports
• Cigarette lighter socket
• Interior lights
• Boot light

Infotainment:

• Screen responsive
• Sat nav working (if fitted)
• Reversing camera (if fitted)
• Parking sensors (if fitted)

Red Flags:

• Any warning lights staying on
• Non-functioning air conditioning (£500-£1,500 repair)
• Multiple electrical failures (expensive hunting)
• Airbag warning light (MOT fail, safety risk)

Boot/Cargo Area

• Opens and closes properly
• Carpet dry (check underneath)
• Spare wheel present (and inflated)
• Jack and tools present
• Locking wheel nut key present
• No rust in spare wheel well

Start-Up Checks

Before Starting

Warning Lights Test:

• Turn key to position 2 (don't start)
• All warning lights illuminate
• Should include: ABS, airbag, engine, oil, battery, etc.
• If lights don't illuminate, bulbs removed (hiding faults)

Cold Start

Listen Carefully:

• Engine starts immediately (not labored)
• No excessive smoke from exhaust
• Blue smoke = burning oil (engine wear)
• White smoke (lots) = coolant burning (head gasket)
• Black smoke = running rich (needs tuning)

Watch Dashboard:

• All warning lights extinguish within 5 seconds
• Oil pressure light goes out
• Engine management light goes out
• ABS light goes out

Red Flags:

• Any warning light stays on
• Excessive smoke
• Rough idle
• Strange noises (knocking, ticking, squealing)

Engine Running (Stationary)

• Idle smooth and steady (not hunting/fluctuating)
• No excessive vibration
• No strange noises
• Rev to 3000rpm: smooth pickup, no hesitation
• Returns to steady idle

Listen For:

• Tapping (valve clearance issues)
• Knocking (serious engine problems)
• Squealing (belt issues)
• Rattling (chain/belt)

Test Drive (Essential)

Route Planning

Must Include:

• Urban streets (low speed maneuverability)
• Faster A-road (acceleration, cruising)
• Bumpy road (suspension test)
• Hills (power, clutch test)
• Tight turns (steering)

Minimum: 20-30 minutes

During Test Drive

First 5 Minutes:

• Clutch bites smoothly (not slipping or juddering)
• Gears engage smoothly (no crunching)
• Steering straight (no pulling)
• Brakes straight (no pulling)

Acceleration:

• Smooth power delivery
• No hesitation
• No smoke under acceleration
• All gears work
• Clutch doesn't slip (maintain RPM under load)

Braking:

• Stops straight
• No vibration (warped discs)
• No squealing (pads wearing)
• ABS works (if conditions allow gentle test)
• Handbrake holds on hill

Steering:

• No pulling to one side
• Returns to center
• No vibration through wheel
• Power steering smooth (no whining)
• No play in steering

Suspension:

• Handles bumps without crashing
• No knocking over bumps
• No squeaking
• Doesn't bounce excessively after bumps
• Corners flatly, not rolling excessively

Transmission:

• All gears engage smoothly
• No jumping out of gear
• Clutch fully releases (manual)
• Automatic changes smoothly
• No clunking during changes

Noises:

• No rattles (note source if present)
• Wind noise acceptable
• Road noise acceptable
• Engine noise acceptable
• Exhaust sounds healthy

Instruments:

• Temperature gauge normal (middle, not climbing)
• Fuel gauge seems accurate
• Speedometer works
• Odometer works

Specific Tests

Clutch Test (Manual):

• Going uphill in 3rd gear
• Press accelerator
• If engine revs rise but speed doesn't = clutch slipping (£600-£1,200)

Brake Test:

• Safe road, moderate speed
• Firm braking (not emergency stop)
• Should stop straight, no vibration
• Pedal shouldn't sink to floor

After Test Drive

Return to Seller Location:

• Let engine idle for 5 minutes
• Check ground underneath for leaks
• Check for smoke from exhaust
• Listen for new noises (warmed up)
• Temperature gauge still normal

Red Flags:

• Oil on ground
• Coolant on ground
• Smoke
• Temperature climbing
• New warning lights

Documentation Check

Essential Documents

V5C (Logbook):

• Seller name matches
• Address matches (roughly)
• VIN matches car
• Not recently issued (if old car = suspicious)
• Watermark present (genuine document)

Service History:

• Complete or close to it
• Stamped or receipts
• Intervals correct
• Major services done (cambelt critical)
• Same owner name throughout (continuity)

MOT Certificates:

• Current MOT
• Old certificates present
• Mileage progression logical
• Not too many advisories

Other:

• Owner's manual
• Service book
• Radio code
• Second key (critical)
• Locking wheel nut key

Red Flags:

• No V5C (major red flag)
• Recently issued V5C on old car
• No service history
• Seller name doesn't match V5C
• Only one key (£100-£300 for replacement)

Independent Inspection

When to Get Professional Inspection

Consider Professional If:

• High-value car (£15,000+)
• You're not mechanically confident
• Seller accepts (genuine sellers will)
• Unusual car (classic, specialist)

Services:

• AA Inspection: £200-£300
• RAC Inspection: £200-£300
• Independent mechanic: £80-£150

Worth It For:

• Peace of mind
• Negotiating leverage
• Avoiding £1,000s in repairs

Red Flags Summary

Walk Away Immediately If:

• Seller refuses test drive
• No V5C document
• VIN doesn't match paperwork
• Warning lights on
• Major smoke from exhaust
• Severe rust
• Seller won't let you inspect thoroughly
• Pressuring quick sale
• Meets in car park (not home)

Negotiate Hard If:

• Bodywork imperfections
• Tyres need replacing
• Service overdue
• Minor faults present
• Cosmetic damage
• Missing documentation

Acceptable If Priced Accordingly:

• High mileage (if well maintained)
• Age-appropriate wear
• Minor paint chips
• Light scratches
• Worn floor mats

Final Checklist

Before committing to buy:

• Exterior inspection complete
• Interior inspection complete
• All electrical functions tested
• Under bonnet checks done
• Test drive completed satisfactorily
• Documentation verified
• HPI check completed (separate, essential)
• MOT history checked online
• Price researched (fair value)
• No major red flags
• Comfortable with any minor issues
• Second opinion if uncertain

Summary

Time Required: 45-60 minutes minimum Difficulty: Moderate (most checks easy) Value: Potentially saving £1,000s

Most Important Checks:

1. Test drive (reveals mechanical issues)
2. Rust inspection (expensive, dangerous)
3. Warning lights (indicate problems)
4. Service history (maintenance quality)
5. HPI check (hidden history)

Common Mistakes:

• Rushing inspection (pressure from seller)
• Skipping test drive
• Not checking everything electrical
• Ignoring small rust spots (spread quickly)
• Buying on emotion not facts

Professional Help: If unsure about anything, £100-£300 for professional inspection is cheap insurance on a £10,000+ purchase.

Remember: It's better to walk away from 10 cars than buy 1 problematic car. Be thorough, be patient, be willing to say no.

If something doesn't feel right, trust your instincts and walk away. There are always more cars.